For those that have followed my Dyno tests and subsequent airbox mods, you are familiar with the big holes in my airbox. The holes get drilled somewhere during the 2nd dyno test. Anyway, the bike has performed fantastic. I've not had any problems whatsoever. However, I've been incubating a better solution ever since. And what follows is....well....more tinkering. So bear with me, its going to take several photos. But I think you'll find it very worthwhile.

For starters, I needed to acquire a new test dummy. So I ordered a new airbox (just the main core). It was very helpful to have one to inspect thoroughly (removed from the bike). Here's what it looks like:




These last two views are from the left side of the box (opposite the door). Its an interesting box design where there is a core and then sides & fronts are bolted onto it....plus other things. Not seen one designed so modular like this before.

Now, let's get into my "Ultimate Mod". You can do ALL of this modification with your existing airbox as it sits within your bike. You will NOT need to remove the airbox from the frame to do this. Its just so much easier to see what is going on with the box removed from the frame. Well...not to mention my original unit (in the bike) has some really big holes drilled all over it.

First step: Remove the airbox top to end up like this:





You may easily remove this top piece by lightly grinding off the tops of the plastic rivets around the perimeter (just a little bit....with a dremel). That will break loose the top from the rivets and you can carefully lift off the top for removal. You might need to pry it up with a regular screwdriver just a bit as you pull it up. Take your time and work around the perimeter little by little, and it will come off fairly cleanly. If a rivet breaks, don't worry about it. You only need a few around the perimeter to help align the top piece upon re-installation.

Second step: Modify the Top Piece to open it up as much as possible. I used a dremel to cut the sides and all the guts out of the top piece. This takes some patient craftsmanship. I left the very front down spout to serve as a splash guard in front of the filter. Everything else was cut away from the under-side and then grinded/sanded smooth. I also trimmed a bit of the top flange back as you'll see in the photos to come. I forgot to shoot a photo of the modified top piece by itself. But, you can easily see what I did by looking in these pics.....even after it was reinstalled.









This mod gave me LOTS of air intake (more than enough), yet still retains the benefits of the original air scoop design. I have a lot better water protection with this mod.....especially versus just popping off the top and discarding it. I didn't like how low the big square airbox opening was (without the top). Water could easily migrate into the box that way. Now, I have it more protected with the air scoop remounted.....its elevated from the top of the box, and the sides are protected. Air must be drawn into the scoops from the rear, and it distributes evenly into the large collector area at the center of the filter.....as originally designed.

To reinstall, I cleaned up the mating surfaces as much as possible, then used Permatex Silcone Adhesive to re-attach. This worked very nicely....filled any imperfections in mating surfaces and bonded tightly. But, I could still remove again later, if ever desired.

Two VERY important things for me: 1) I was able to keep the "Level Switch Mount" in the original location. 2) I also was able to keep the top of the air scoop for useable surface area....to mount my FMF-PP. I like it there....very protected & easy access. I simply glued another piece of flat plastic over the solenoid hole. Then, I applied new velcro for my Power Programmer like this:

R² really runs super good with this mod, if you've opened the pipe and added a fuel programmer. This is WAY better than the old flapper mod. That original intake port is just too too tiny for much of anything....in the power department. Either leave your bike bone stock, or open up both ends + a fuel programmer. Some partial "in-between" step won't yield much change in performance.

Here are a few more (final) photos of the procedure (when I had to replace my entire airbox). CAUTION, these photos are NOT for the queezy or squimmish.....you might faint!





Poor R²! Kind of traumatized her, I think...

This was a rather BIG job. Not something I'd recommend for the unskilled novice. All of the wiring harness had to be wrestled out to remove the sub-frame. YIKES!!! Then, it was easy to work with the rest of the airbox. I will say that I'm even further impressed with the fit and finish of the frame & mated parts after drilling this deep for paydirt. The engineering design on this bike is top-notch. Even tiny details seem to have been thought out quite thoroughly.

Here's one final photo showing a comparison of my two super-modified airboxes side by side:

Most importantly: I know the Scottmac will be proud of this handiwork!

HF