After 20,000 miles of amazing riding in every situation imaginable, I was starting to get some clutch slippage. It's time for some replacement clutch plates. This is a very simple procedure, but if you aren't comfortable digging this far in the engine, it might be wise to enlist some help.

It got the creative juices flowing and I started tinkering again.

With this:


For the benefit of the collective, I decided to make some actual comparisons of counter sprockets.  Here are 3 options side by side for easy evaluation:





The stock OEM 13 tooth is in the middle.  On the left is a JT 12 tooth.  On the right is a Sidewinder Ti-2 (13 tooth titanium).


I did finish making my mudflap extension this weekend. However, I admit, I did requisition this fine piece of tail from my reject bin. I think it was from my DR350, but can't swear to it:

Last winter, I spent 4 days in subfreezing weather for a real endurance test on body & bike.  Sleeping in the bush, on the ground.  The Krabill kept nagging me to go for months in advance....some bright idea about an Extreme Winter Dualsport Ride.  Turns out eleven brave souls (more like crazy idiots) started, but only ten riders finished.  It all began like this:



A whopping 12 degrees on the first morning.  Told you we were "on the ground"!

Here is a Tech Guide for Masterlink clip removal and reinstall procedure.  Turn the wheel until the masterlink is positioned on somewhere convenient on the rear sprocket.  Then, loosen your axle nut and adjust the chain tension to give it some slack.

Now, align one side of the pliers against the pin (shown above), and the other against the face of the open end on the clip. Got to be flush and level. Push inward to put pressure against the Masterlink as you squeeze the pliers. You should feel a little "click", and get this:

Tinkering again....


During an extreme Winter Dualsport ride, I encountered a serious problem out in the remote bush.  My water pump hose got sliced by some brush!  Had to make a quick fix using some duct tape....always carry duct tape.




An upcoming DS ride seemed like a good excuse to perform some bearing maintenance on my swing-arm & rear shock linkage. Thought I'd share some insight & technique here, since there appear to be many people who seem thin in this department.

First thing to do is remove her pants....Warning...the following content is R-rated and may not be suitable for children under 18 years of age.

Strip her bare naked below the waist. Like this:

Swing Arm

It looks complicated, but its not. Just a few wrenches and get after it. Do try to have a system so you can sort of remember what goes where upon reassembly. When in doubt, just use lots of'll probably work ok...for a while.

The Dirtbagz brackets were not perfectly compatible with my GYTR Tail Rack, straight out of the box.  I don't think I took a photo of the problem before I did the mod.  But, you might find it on BigDog Adventures website in his WRR mods section.  Basically, both racks come toward the mounting bolt from the left side (in same position).  Thus, they are competing for the same space.....and that doesn't work.  

The following modifications were made to accommodate the simultaneous mounting of both racks together.  Takes a little cutting and welding.  So, you might need to find a buddy or shop with a welder.  This procedure is officially known as the "Big Dog Mod".

First thing to do is to permanently affix the backup nut which mounts the right side bracket to the subframe under the rear fender.  There is no easy way to get your hand up under there to hold a nut for installation, without removing the rear fender.  That would get really irritating over time.  So, here's the simply fix:  Mount the bolt into the nut, then tack it in place.  Remove the bolt and finish the weld around the nut.  Be careful not to be too aggressive with the welder on your subframe.  Remember, electricity will conduct really well through your whole frame and get into every part of the electrical system, if you don't take proper precautions.  Make sure you disconnect the battery leads, before welding on the frame.  Finished part looks like this: